| History of Falcarragh
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An Fálcarragh, the main commercial town between Letterkenny and
Dungloe was known in former times both as Crossroads and as Robinson’s Town. An
Fálcarrach, the official name, originally referred to a little hamlet south
east of the present town, at the foot of Falcarragh hill - but gradually houses
were built at the crossroads, mainly for the workers and trades people employed
on the Olphert Estate in Ballyconnell.
The first recorded reference to Falcarragh appears in a report written by
William Wilson, Raphoe in 1822. Wilson was the Protestant Bishop’s stewart
responsible for the collection of tithes to support the Protestant clergy. He,
apparently, received a hostile reception on arrival in Cloughaneely (parish)
according to his account to the bishop:
According to my intention I went to Cloughineely and on Monday about 12 o’clock
arrived at a place called Falcarrow in your Lordship’s See (about five miles
distant from Dunfanaghy) where I then, pursuant to advertisement, proposed
holding the Court as I twice before had, but was immediately on my arrival
surrounded by upwards of 150 to 300 men who had assembled merely for the
purpose of preventing me from holding any Court and threatened my life if I
would. Their measures I was obliged to comply with.
Slater’s Directory of 1870 provides us with valuable information about
Falcarragh and it’s surrounding area.
Crossroads or Falcarragh, is a village, in
the parish of Tullaghbegley, and partly of Raymunterdoney, barony of
Kilmacrennan, situated on the summit of a small hill near to the coast;
opposite here is the Island of Torrey, nine miles distant. The places of
worship are the parish church and a Presbyterian meetinghouse. A dispensary and
a school are the charitable institutions. Fairs are held on the last Thursday
monthly. Population in 1861 was 231.
Slater’s Directory of 1881 records that the population increased to 258
inhabitants in 1871 and also tells that there was a Protestant Episcopal Church
in the town. We are given some information about the local post office situated
at the crossroads. Thomas Browne was Postmaster at the time and
“letters from all parts arrive at ten minutes past eleven morning, and are
dispatched at one afternoon.”
Falcarragh is the main town of the parish known as Cloughaneely (Cloich Cheann
Fhaola), a parish steeped in history.
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| Cloich Cheann Fhaola |
Tá scálaí na staire ag síneadh romhat. Balor
agus Colm Cille; Gaeil agus Gaill; an Lágan agus Albain; díshealbhú agus
imirce; droch am agus laetha óir – clocha doirlinge iad sin ar thrá Chloich
Cheann Fhaola.
“The mist of the mountains and voice of the sea are ever near” So too are the
shadows of the past. Pre-Celtic gods and early Christian saints; warring clans
and Cromwellian soldiers, evictions and emigration, poverty and poetry are all
threads woven in the tapestry which is the heritage of Cloich Cheann Fhaola.
Here is the heart of Gaelic-speaking Donegal.
Balor, the mythological king of Tory Island, was a Fomorian giant who was widely
known as Balor na Súile Nimhe (Balor of the
Evil Eye). He stole a highly prized cow, the Glas Gaibhleann from Mac Aneely a
chieftain who lived on the mainland. Mac Aneely resolved to kill Balor. His
druid told him that only his grandson could kill Balor. Balor, therefore, kept
his daughter Eithne in prison in Tory. Mac Aneely, disguised as a lady,
succeeded in getting into the prison and when Eithne saw him she immediately
fell in love with him. When Mac Aneely returned to the mainland he left Eithne
with child. She gave birth to three sons but when Balor found out he ordered
them to be drowned. However, one son named Lugh survived, and was fostered by
his uncle Gavida, the blacksmith.
Balor, outraged by Mac Aneely’s plans to kill him went to the mainland, seized
Mac Aneely, lay him across a large white stone and beheaded him with one blow
of his sword. A red stain, said to be Mac Aneely’s blood can be seen on the
white stone known locally as Cloich Cheann Fhaola (The Stone of the Head of Mac
Aneely). In 1774 Wybrant Olphert of Ballyconnell House raised the stone on a
pillar 16ft high. Sometime after Mac Aneely’s death his son Lugh avenged him by
thrusting a red spear through Balor’s evil eye. Lugh, who came to be known as
the God of Light was commemorated on one of the postage stamps of Eire, “The
Sword of Light.”
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| First Settlers in Cloughaneely |
The first Mesolithic Hunters, who came from Scotland and settled
first of all around the east coast of Antrim and the river Bann paddled into
Ballyness Bay and Tramore Bay about 5000- 4000 BC. They were fishermen, hunters
and gatherers and they found this area ideal with an abundance of fish, wild
animals, nuts and berries. They remained beside the sea and adapted well to the
local environment. A number of Mesolithic implements have been discovered, an
early Mesolithic axe was found near Dunfanaghy and Bann flakes, used as knives
or for scraping flesh from hides, were found across the bay at Hornhead.
The Neolithic people were the first farmers and the great megalith or stone
monument builders. They came to Ireland around 3500 BC. They probably sailed
from Britain or from Brittany and made their way along the coast until they
reached Ballyness Bay around 3000 BC. These early farmers were the first to
leave a lasting mark on the Irish landscape. In many parts they built large
tombs, known as megalithic tombs, for their dead. There are still a number of
these tombs in Cloughaneely today. There is a fine example of a
Court Cairn, the earliest megalithic tomb, to be found in Ballyboes
(Cloughacorra). A court cairn usually had a room, or several rooms, built from
great slabs of stone in which the cremated ashes of the dead were placed. The
room/ rooms were then completely covered by a mound of earth and smaller
stones. There was an open space or court in front of the burial chamber where
the funeral ceremony would have taken place.
The descendants of the Court Cairn people built the Dolmens
or Portal Graves. They had only one room/ chamber. The roof of the
chamber was a huge stone rested upon two large upright stones to the front and
two smaller stones to the back. The corpse/ cremated remains were placed in the
chamber and the whole structure covered in soil. Two examples in the locality
are Dermot and Grainne’s bed in Ailt and the Dolmen at
Errarooey Beg.
There is a Wedge Tomb, generally believed to
belong to the Early Bronze Age and locally
known as Grainne’s Grave to be found in
Greenhills.
With the discovery of metals the Stone Age came to an end. By adding tin to
copper a hard metal called Bronze was made. Tools fashioned from bronze were
more efficient and longer lasting than copper or even stone, they were also
easily shaped and sharpened. The Bronze Age people did not bury their dead in
megalithic tombs, instead they used a stone box into which the body was placed.
These graves are called Cist Graves. The only
cist grave found in this area was discovered in the sandhills near Dunfanaghy
in 1898 and it contained two skulls, one of an elderly male and the other of a
young adult female. Few Bronze Age settlements have been found in this country
but in Cloich Cheann Fhaola we have the remains of a bronze Age cooking site
called a Fulachta Fiadh.
The Fulachta Fiadh was a rectangular pit lined
with wooden planks. It was then filled with water and a fire on which stones
were heated was lit beside it. The heated stones were then put into the water
and meat wrapped in straw was dropped into the water. More stones were added to
keep the water boiling. Archaeologists believe that this way of cooking
continued until about 1000AD. There is an example of a Fulachta
Fiadh
at Errarooey More.
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| Cros Cholm Cille(St Colm Cille’s Cross) |
This large ringed cross, twenty feet in length and seven feet in
breadth, stands against the north wall inside ruins of Ray Church. The cross is
said to have been sculpted from a solid rock quarried form Muckish Mountain and
was originally intended for Tory by St. Colm Cille. Colm Cille, however,
presented it to St. Fionán who had retrieved his misplaced bible. The cross was
knocked down in a storm about 1750 and lay broken in the graveyard until the
1970’s when it was repaired by the Office of Public Works.
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| Ray Church |
According to local tradition, the first church at Ray was founded
by St. Fíonán in the sixth century. A church survived there until the
seventeenth century when it was destroyed by a platoon of Cromwellian soldiers
under the command of Captain Cunningham. The soldiers burst open the door
during mass one Sunday morning and slaughtered the congregation. This came to
be known as Marfach Raithe (The Massacre of Ray). The dead are buried within
two hundred metres of the church at a place called Lag na gCnámh (Resting Place
of the Bones).
The church continued to be used by the Church of Ireland until the early 19th
century. Many members of the Olphert family (local landlords) are buried there.
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| Baile Chonaill (Ballyconnell House) |
This fine 18th century house stands in the heart of a magnificently wooded park
of 500 acres, about a quarter of a mile from Falcarragh. It is the former
residence of the Olpherts, a landowning family of Dutch extraction who first
bought land in Cloughaneely in 1619. Ballyconell House was built around 1763.
The Olphert motto “Dum Spiro Spero” (While I breath I hope) is still legible
over the front door. The house was occupied by the Irish Republican Brotherhood
in 1921 also the Free State Forces in 1922. The Olphert lands (15,611 acres)
were purchased by the Congested Districts Board for £20,620 in 1917 and the
house and Estate by the Commissioners of Public Works for £7,000 in 1926.
The House and Estate were offered to the Loreto nuns and was opened as a
preparatory college, Coláiste Bhríde, for girls who wanted to become primary
school teachers in 1927. The Loreto nuns were there until 1961.
It was bought by the Diocese of Raphoe and reopened as a boys’ secondary school
in 1965. A new 3-storey dormitory wing was added. Ballyconnell was used as a
residence for boarding students until 1986. In 1987 Udarás na Gaeltachta bought
the estate.
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| An tSean Bheairic (R.I.C. Barracks) |
| This authentic two-storey building, located in the centre of
Falcarragh, was originally constructed in 1890 as the Falcarragh Police
Barracks. It was used as such until 1920 when it became the Falcarragh Garda
Station. Permanent exhibits of its history and culture are displayed within the
visitors’ centre.
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| Books Relating to History of Area: |
Cloughaneely- Myth and Fact Gerry McLaughlin
Aspects of Our Rich Inheritance Seosamh O Ceallaigh
Toraigh Cloich Cheann Fhaola Cnoc Fola (A scenic Drive Through Historic
Northwest Donegal)
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